Rioja is the big dog of Spanish wines, but the question on everyone’s lips is - how does the Costco Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva stack up to other Riojas? Amiright?!? Well, without giving it away, we’re here to tell you that the Kirkland Signature Rioja is a worthy contender! But did it win in a knockout, or was it a draw? You’ll have to listen to find out. Rioja is a big, bold, punch-you-in-the-face wine that is a good alternative for Cabernet Sauvignon lovers, and, in our humble opinion, it’s a lot better, but don’t tell anyone we told you that! We will be continuing on our journey of the wines of northern Spain for a few more weeks, so make sure you subscribe so you don’t miss out! Wines reviewed in this episode: 2019 Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva, 2017 Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva, 2019 Bodegas Lan Rioja Crianza
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Show Notes
Episode 119: Costco Kirkland Signature 2019 Rioja Reserva Challenge! 00:00
Hello! And welcome to The Wine Pair Podcast. I’m Joe, your sommelier of reasonably priced wine, and this is my wife and my wine pairing partner in crime, Carmela. And we are The Wine Pair!
Ok, a quick orientation for those of you who may be new to the podcast - in each episode we learn about, taste and give our honest review of three wines that are reasonably priced - meaning under $20 each - and should be easy for you to find. And our podcast is made for people who want to learn more about wine, find new wines to enjoy, and just want someone to talk about wine in a fun way that regular people can understand. So, if that sounds like you, you are in the right place! And we are proud to say that we are recommended by the editors of Decanter Magazine who call us fun, irreverent, chatty, and entertaining
Carmela, we are back with another Costco Kirkland Signature Wine Challenge and we keep going back to this episode series because they seem to be a good way to get new listeners - and hopefully keep our current listeners happy, too. I have mentioned this before, but the Google machine seems to like these episodes - and by that I mean that when people search for reviews of specific Kirkland wines, our episodes tend to show up.
Why do you think people like these Costco episodes?
The reason why I think people like these episodes is because people are very curious about just how good Costco’s Kirkland Signature wines are, and they want to know if they are worth their low price. But getting information on just how good the wines are can be a little challenging. I spent some time in our last Costco Wine Challenge episode on two of the more popular websites that focus on Costco wines, namely the Costco Wine Blog and The Reverse Wine Snob, and those are useful sources because many of the main wine reviewers just don’t review them.
And, now we feel we are becoming another one of those trusted voices out there providing wine drinkers with some advice on just how good Costco’s wines are.
So, knowing that, the last time we were at Costco, I did my usual tour of the wine section to find if there were any new or different Costco Kirkland Signature wines for us to review in upcoming episodes, and we found a bunch! So we’ll have lots of opportunities over the next several months to do more of these Costco wine challenges, which is fun! And one of the wines that I was really happy to find on our last trip was the wine we are doing the challenge on today: the Costco Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva.
And why, Carmela, do you think I was so happy to find this wine? That’s right, because we are visiting Spain in about a month, and we are doing several episodes on Spanish wines over the next several weeks. We did one on Priorat last week, and this week, we are doing Rioja.
Now, when we travel to Spain we are going to be spending most of our time on our trip in Barcelona, and Rioja is not a wine from the Barcelona area. However, it is the most famous red wine in Spain, and it is a wine from northern Spain, and Barcelona is also a city in the northern part of Spain, and so my expectation is that we will still find this wine with some frequency on our trip.
And, if this is a wine we are going to be seeing, I want to know first if we like this wine, and second, what kinds of foods we think this wine may go with. Now, I will not pretend like we are experts on Spanish foods, but as we always say, wine is the fifth food group, and we firmly believe that the cuisine of an area and the wine of an area are likely a great match. And I am super excited to go on that adventure.
So, we are going to spend some time learning a bit more about Rioja, and then we have three Rioja wines to taste and review and we’ll see how we like Rioja, and how it compares to Priorat, the other great Spanish wine that we drank in last week’s episode, so we’ll do that in a few minutes.
But first . . . we have to do our shameless plug.
Thank you for listening to us and for supporting our show, and now is a great time to subscribe to our podcast - and a huge thank you to all of you who have subscribed already!
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You can also follow us and see pictures of the wines we are tasting and trying today and weird AI pictures on Instagram at thewinepairpodcast, and you can contact us on our website thewinepairpodcast.com, and you can sign up for our email newsletter there and get news and food and wine pairing ideas and more!
We want to make content that you love and care about, so please send me and Carmela a note at joe@thewinepairpodcast.com if you have ideas for us, if you want us to do more or less of certain types of episodes or wines. We would love to hear from you.
And a big shout out to Nicole who sent us the nicest note and a great article that we are putting in our show notes - which Nicole suggested. In short, the article is about younger California wine makers going back to the roots in areas like Napa and creating wines in the style they were made in the 1970’s which were lower in alcohol and more acid-driven - food wines, in other words. We would love to see that! And we are so happy to hear that Nicole and her friends share our suspicion / dislike of big, oaky, California Cabs. If you can’t get past the paywall for the first article, I have another link for an article that has a similar message. Thanks again, Nicole. As we say, we love to hear from you - and we’ll even write you back!
And, as we do every week, we’ll tell you someone we think you should tell about The Wine Pair Podcast. This week, we want you to tell anyone who loves Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah because they may really like this classic Spanish wine. And, by the way, we do this every week because we want you to help us out in finding new listeners. So, send this to someone you love, or maybe you only like, or even someone you really dislike so they can get hooked on our show.
ARTICLES and LINKS
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rioja_DOCa
- https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/wine/article/napa-1970s-19325647.php
- https://www.skurnik.com/return-classic-stylistic-evolution-california-wine/
Topic: WTF is Rioja? 09:27
So let’s take a few minutes to learn more about Rioja. We mentioned this last week, but of all of the many wine zones or areas in Spain, there are only two wines, Priorat and Rioja, that get the special designation of DOQ, sometimes spelled DOCa, and these two are supposed to be the best of the best in Spanish wines. And, by the way, really like Priorat!
Like many European wines, Rioja is named for the region, and not the wine grapes. We talked about that last week in the Priorat episode as well. We are very used to, in the US, knowing wines by their varietal or type, but the biggest wine regions in the world - France, Italy, and Spain - often name wines by the area in which they are grown and made and not the grape.
So, the main grape in Rioja wines is Tempranillo, and we’ll get back to that in a second, but I want to talk a little about where Rioja comes from because part of the great thing about learning about wines, especially when you are going to travel to the country they are made in, is that you can learn a little bit about the history and the culture from the wine.
Rioja is in northern Spain, and they have been making wines in the Rioja are since at least the 1200’s, but most historians say that wine has been made in the area since the Roman times, and some even believe the Phoenicians brought Tempranillo to Spain. In fact, some people think that the grapes used in Rioja are the parents of the grapes that later were grown in France.
Now, again, we are heading to Barcelona when we head to Spain which is in Catalonia, so I am curious to see how much Rioja we see there compared to Priorat The big cities closest to Rioja are Pamploma, Bilbao, Leon, San Sebastian, and Zaragoza, so I would expect to see lots of Rioja in those areas if you traveled there, obviously.
There are actually three sub-regions that are classified as Rioja, although they are all in the same general area. So, here is a super quick run down of the regions, but you can find more information if you check out the links to articles we used to do our research in our show notes. Did you know we have show notes?
Rioja Alta is, as would be expected, is at a higher elevation than the other regions, and is said to make a lighter and fruitier wine. Rioja Oriental, also known as Rioja Baja, is grown in the warmest climate of the three and makes a higher alcohol and low acid wine. And Rioja Alavesa is actually in the Basque region of Spain, and creates a fuller bodied and higher acid wine.
Rioja red wines are generally but not always blends, and the main grape in the wine is as I mentioned Temparanillo, which is a wine grape mostly grown in Spain and Portugal. Other grapes that are often blended in are Grenache, Carignan (also known as Samso or Mazuelo), and Graciano, which is a grape grown almost exclusively in Rioja, and a grape that has very recently been allowed into the wine called Maturana Tinta.
There are different categories of Rioja based on how long they are aged and how long they stay on oak. Generally, Rioja wines are wines you want to let age for a while. Like a long while - 10 to 20 years in some cases! There are versions of Rioja, called Joven or Young that can be drunk right away, and Rioja producers are trying to create wines that do not need as much aging because, well, people are not patient. But the general rule of thumb is to let these babies grow up a bit. The categories of Rioja are similar to the ones we mentioned in our last episode on Priorat:
- Crianza are wines that have to age for 2 years and at least one of those years has to be in oak.
- Reserva wines have to age for 3 years and again at least one of those years has to be in oak.
- Gran Reserva wines have to age for 4 years, and two of those years have to be in oak.
Oak has a big influence on this wine, and so generally this is not a wine that you and I will tend to like very much, Carmela - but we are going to be open minded! This is a wine that seems to be more suited to the American palate and those who prefer really powerful, what we call punch-you-in-the-face wines. This is also a wine that is supposed to be tailor-made for red meat. So, punch you in the face and then put a steak on your black eye. Remember they used to do that on tv shows?
On a very random side note, back to Rioja, the first bottled version of Sangria in the 1960s was made from Rioja, and Rioja is considered sort of the classic base for Sangria.
But, that’s enough background - let’s talk about the wines we chose for this episode.
ARTICLES and LINKS
- https://wineinsiders.com/blogs/wine-101-types-of-wines-grapes/rioja
- https://winefolly.com/grapes/tempranillo/
- https://armchairsommelier.com/learning-wine/best-wine-for-sangria/
Rioja Wines We Chose for This Episode 17:39
As usual, all of the wines we have chosen for this episode are under $20, and all of them should be relatively easy to find because I bought one of them at Costco, and the other two I bought at local Kroger stores. I know one of these wines is a Rioja you can find basically anywhere, although I purchased the Reserva version of their wine which is a bit harder to find. So, two of our wines are Reservas, and one is a Crianza, and I did that because I wanted a fair comparison to the Kirkland Signature version.
So, let’s start there. We have the 2019 Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva, and the bottle indicates that it is 100% Tempranillo. The Reverse Wine Snob gave this wine an 8.3 rating, and Costco Wine Blog gave it an 89, so these are well regarded wines. And it was $7.99! I have also noticed that this 2019 version of the wine is getting higher accolades than earlier versions.
According to the Reverse Wine Snob, the wine is bottled by Bodegas Eguia, which is in the Rioja Alavesa area. They make their own version of each of the four categories of Rioja as well, including a Gran Reserva, so I would be curious to find out how different they are.
Let’s move on to our next wine, which is a wine you have most likely seen in your local grocery store or wine shop, and probably even tried. The wine is called Campo Viejo Rioja, and has a bright yellow label, but again the version I picked up is actually the Reserva which comes with a slightly darker orange label.
The make-up of this wine has been a little tricky to figure out, but I believe it is 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo (Carignan). This one is actually the oldest of the bunch from the 2017 vintage, and that may be why wine was on sale when I bought it. By the way, James Suckling gave it a 92. But who cares. Cause that guy sucks.
The last wine we are going to try is called Bodegas Lan Rioja Crianza and is also from the 2019 vintage. This wine is also one you can probably find pretty easily - I think Lan wines are pretty easy to find. And remember that Crianza is a category that is aged for only two years, one of which is on oak, before it is released - although LAN keeps the wine on oak for 14 months. This wine is also a bit lower in alcohol than the other two. This one is 13.5% while the other two are 14%. I am expecting a different style of wine with this one than the other two, but we will see! I would expect this wine to be a little lighter and a little easier drinking.
Bodegas Lan is in Rioja Alta, so the one at the highest elevation, and the name LAN is the initials of the three provinces Alta is in: Logroño, Álava and Navarra. This wine is also a blend of 93% Tempranillo, 2% Mazuelo, and 5% Garnacha. By the way, WS gave this wine an 89.
But, I think that is enough information - let’s get to drinking! We’ll take a quick break and be right back. And, if you have these wines or similar wines, drink along with us!
ARTICLES and LINKS
- https://www.reversewinesnob.com/kirkland-signature-rioja-reserva
- https://www.bodegaseguia.com/es/una-historia
- https://winesfromus.com/product/campo-viejo-reserva-2017/
- https://www.empirewine.com/wine/bodegas-lan-crianza-rioja-2019-h56151/#desc
- https://www.wine.com/product/bodegas-lan-rioja-crianza-2019/1332051
- https://bodegaslan.com/en/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Crianza-2019-Bodegas-LAN-EN.pdf
2019 Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva, 2017 Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva, 2019 Bodegas Lan Rioja Crianza Wine Tasting, Pairing, and Review 22:06
Wine: Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva
Region: Spain, Rioja
Year: 2019
Price: $7.99
Retailer: Costco
Alcohol: 14%
Grapes: Tempranillo
Professional Rating: RWS 8.3, CWB 89
What we tasted and smelled in this Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva:
- On the nose: Spicy, black cherry, black pepper, cinnamon, clove, anise, licorice, smoke, wood, tar, roses, complex
- In the mouth: Punch-you-in-the-face, full bodied, fruity, jammy, black currant jam, fig jam, bramble, alcohol on the aftertaste almost like a hard alcohol, not super oaky, good as a Sangria base, crowd pleaser, a party wine, summer wine
Food to pair with this Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva: Crusty bread stinky cheese and fig jam, salumi board, steak, grilled meats, cookout
As a reminder on our rating scale, we rate on a scale of 1-10, where 7 and above means that we would buy it, and 4 and below means that we are likely to pour it down the sink, and a 5 or 6 means we are likely to drink it and finish it, but we are probably not going to buy it.
Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva Wine Rating:
- Joe: 8/10
- Carmela: 8/10
A killer deal for the price
Wine: Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva (Click here to learn about this wine on wine.com. Affiliate link.)
Region: Spain, Rioja
Year: 2017
Price: $13.99 (on sale)
Retailer: QFC
Alcohol: 14%
Grapes: 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo (Carignan)
Professional Rating: JS 92
What we tasted and smelled in this Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva:
- On the nose: Dusty, fruity, vanilla, black cherry, rose, candied cherry
- In the mouth: Balsamic vinegar, tart, dusty, plum, tannic, grape skins, plum skins, hot alcohol ending, more of a food wine
Food to pair with this Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva: Red meat, more casual wine, cheeseburger, Swedish meatballs, tapas, pizza
Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva Wine Rating:
- Joe: 6/10
- Carmela: 6/10
Wine: Bodegas Lan Rioja Crianza (Click here to learn about this wine on wine.com. Affiliate link)
Region: Spain, Rioja
Year: 2019
Price: $14.99
Retailer: Fred Meyer
Alcohol: 13.5%
Grapes: 93% Tempranillo, 2% Mazuelo (Carignan), 5% Garnacha
Professional Rating: WW 89, WS 89
What we tasted and smelled in this Bodegas Lan Rioja Crianza:
- On the nose: Fruity, flowery, potpourri spray, underripe cherry, raspberry, plum, alcohol, red licorice, leaf and dirt on the swirl
- In the mouth: Cherry, Rainier cherry, candy sweet, fresh fruit, crunchy red fruit, some acid, sharp
Food to pair with this Bodegas Lan Rioja Crianza: Carbs, pizza, pasta, sandwiches, flautas sandwiches, Philly cheesesteak, Chicago Italian beef
Bodegas Lan Rioja Crianza Wine Rating:
- Joe: 7/10
- Carmela: 7/10
Which one of these are you finishing tonight?
- Carmela: Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva
- Joe: Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva
Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva wins the wine challenge! Hands down!
Taste profiles expected from Rioja 39:07
- General
- Wine Insiders: Cherry, Plum, Dill, Vanilla, Leather
- Wine Folly: Cherry, Dill, Cigar Box, Sun-Dried Tomato, Vanilla
- Kirkland Signature Rioja Reserva
- RWS: It begins with an expressive and pleasing aroma of blackberry, vanilla, leather and balsamic along with secondary notes of licorice, mint, cola, cedar and more. Tasting the medium-bodied wine reveals that classic Rioja character that can only come from being well aged and spending some significant time in oak barrels. Smooth with soft tannins, lightly spicy and featuring great depth and balance this wine is a pleasure to drink. It ends dry with more blackberry and vanilla plus some long-lasting cola, cinnamon and balsamic notes.
- CWB: Our tasting notes this year are a little different than the prior vintages with a touch more red fruit and cherry coming through. Medium ruby in the glass, medium in body, gentle tannins, cherry, red licorice flavors, notes of leather, some vanilla and oak in the finish.
- Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva
- Winery: Fruit (cherries, black plums, ripe blackberries) and oak (clove, pepper, vanilla and coconut), enriched by the complex aromas developed during bottle ageing. Very attractive on the palate, with ripe fruit and spices, tobacco and toasted oak. Elegant and soft tannins, middle weight, long and complex finish.
- James Suckling: Notes of ripe berries, sweet spices and cocoa with some earthy character to it. Medium- to full-bodied with polished tannins and a sleek texture. Firm and stalky with notes of cedar and walnut to it.
- Bodegas Lan Rioja Crianza
- Winery: Bright cherry red with a garnet rim. A refined nose with predominant notes of red and stone fruits: strawberry, raspberry, and peach. Patisserie and cream encased in elegant notes of vanilla, caramel, and a subtle hint of cinnamon. It is flavourful and expressive on the palate. It is immediately inviting, enveloping the palate and leaving a long and pleasant aftertaste.
- WW: The 2019 Bodegas Lan Crianza is heady and driven on the palate. This wine shows aromas and flavors of dried earth, wood, savory spices, and black fruits.
- WS: A fresh, balanced and medium-bodied red, with light, taut tannins and a skein of spice well-knit to notes of bitter cherry, dried fig, licorice twist, orange peel and medicinal herbs.
Outro and how to find The Wine Pair Podcast 41:53
Ok, so, Carmela, it is just about time for us to go, but before we do, we want to thank you very much for listening to us - and if you haven’t done so yet, now would be the perfect time to subscribe to our podcast and also a fantastic time to leave us a nice rating and review on our website or Apple podcasts or other podcast service - and it is an awesome and free way to support us and help us grow listeners.
We would also love to hear from you about a wine you would like us to taste and review. You can, leave a message for us on our website thewinepairpodcast.com and you can join our email newsletter there, too, or you can email us at joe@thewinepairpodcast.com. And, follow us on Instagram so you can see pictures of all of these wines we are tasting and reviewing.
Alright, with that, we are going to sign off, so thanks again, and we will see you next time. And, as we say, life is short, so stop drinking shitty wine.
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