WTF is Monastrell? (AKA Mourvèdre, Mataro, Underrated Spanish Red, High QPR Superstar, Low-intervention Farming)

Show Notes

Episode 87: WTF is Monastrell?  00:00

Hello! And welcome to The Wine Pair Podcast. I’m Joe, your sommelier of reasonably priced wine, and this is my wife and my wine pairing partner in crime, Carmela. And we are The Wine Pair! 

Ok, a quick orientation for those of you who may be new to the podcast - in each episode we learn about, taste and give our brutally honest review of three wines that are reasonably priced - meaning under $20 each -  and should be easy for you to find. And our podcast is made for people who want to learn more about wine, find new wines to enjoy, and just want someone to talk about wine in a way that normal people can understand. So, if that sounds like you, you are in the right place! And we are proud to say that we have been featured recently in The Mercury News and we are recommended by the editors of Decanter Magazine who call us fun, irreverent, chatty, and entertaining

Today, Carmela, we are coming back to a red wine, or at least a red wine grape, that we have been talking about in several different episodes for a while now called Mourvèdre, or, as it is known in Spain, Monastrell, and by the way, it has different names even than that, and we are going to learn today just what the fuck this wine is. You dig? 

But let’s go back a bit, shall we? First, in April, we did a minisode that was basically a primer on red wine blends, and in it, we explained that one of the two most classic red wine blends is the GSM blend, also known as a Rhône-style blend. And, by the way, the other classic red wine blend is the Bordeaux blend, but that is for another day. 

In the GSM blend, the G is Grenache, the S is Syrah, and the M is Mourvèdre - at least that is the way the grapes are pronounced in France. When we talk about those grapes in Spain, Grenache is actually pronounced Granacha, and Mourvèdre is called Monastrell. Syrah stays just plain old Syrah for whatever reason.

Then, in early July, we did an episode where we further demystified the GSM blend itself, and tried two GSM blends from Côtes du Rhône which is the area of France where they were first and most famously created, and we also tried a GSM blend from Southern Australia where Syrah is called Shiraz. 

And, just for good measure, Monastrell is not only known as Mourvèdre, but it is also known by the name Mataro in other parts of the world. And, by the way, Wikipedia - which you can always trust - says that this same grape has 95 different names worldwide. 95!

Alright, are you confused yet?

Anyway, I thought it would be fun to do an episode on this one varietal in the GSM blend that most people don’t know that much about or talk that much about, because Grenache and Syrah get all the glory, and just focus on good old Monastrel.

And, actually, I wanted to do the episode specifically on Mourvèdre, but what I found when I started looking for wines was that it was much much easier to find reasonably priced wines from Spain under the name Monastrell, and so that is why we are doing this episode on Monastrell.

So, here we are. We are going to taste and review three wines Monastrell wines from Spain, which will be really fun because for one, I don’t know that we have ever had a Monastrell before on its own, and the second reason is that we don’t do a ton of wines from Spain, and I think we have been kind of neglecting Spanish wines a bit. So, it’s time to change that, what do you say, Carmela?!?

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And, as we do every week, we’ll tell you someone we think you should tell about The Wine Pair Podcast. This week, we want you to think of someone who has a connection to Spain - maybe they speak Spanish, or maybe they’ve visited Spain in the past or are going there soon, or maybe they make a mean Paella - and send them this episode or the link to this episode so they can check it out!

ARTICLES and LINKS

• https://winefolly.com/grapes/monastrell-mourvedre/  

Topic: WTF is Monastrell? 08:18

Alright, Carmela, let’s dig into just what the F Monastrell is - and we are going to focus exclusively on Monastrell from Spain and just kind of leave Mourvèdre and Mataro and France  and everywhere else out of it. 

In Spain, Monastrell comes from the East Coast, on the Mediterranean side of the country known as Levante, although I understand that the people in Levante don’t often call the area Levante, so there’s that.

According to one source I found online, that you can find links to in the show notes for this episode on our website, Monastrell the grape is actually thought to be native to Spain. The wine is alleged to be very old, possibly being brought to Valencia by the Phoenicians in 500 BC. 

And, also according to this same website called Simply Spanish Wine, which you would hope would be an authority on all things Spanish Wine given the name so I am going to choose to trust them, Monastrell and Syrah share some of the same characteristics, such as black fruit, spice, and a rich taste overall.

In Spain, Monastrell is the 4th most widely planted red wine varietal, although there has been some decline in growing it over the last several years as other varietals, like Cabernet, have become more popular. Boo! Boo Cabernet!

Some of the best Monastrell is supposed to come from the wine regions, or DOs as they are known in Spain, of Jumilla, Bullas, and Yecla in the province of Murcia - where Monastrell still makes up about 80% of the wine grapes that are grown, as well as places like Alicante, Valencia, and Almansa. By the way, two of the wines we are drinking today are from Alicante, and one is from Jumilla. 

This area of Spain where Monastrell grows is pretty darn hot, and pretty dry, and so that is why a grape like Monastrell can do well there. Monastrell is evidently a hearty grape that is pretty resistant to heat and dry weather. This area also has vines that are very, very old, and in fact one of our wines today calls out the old vines it comes from.

On that note, Carmela, I am told we should look for the words pie franco on a bottle of Spanish wine - that means that they are not grafted from American vines, which happened a lot in Europe when the crops were being destroyed by Phylloxera disease. Grapes from these old vines also tend to have lower fruit yields, which means they often produce more intensely flavored berries. So, we are going to look at our wine bottles and see if the words pie franco show up!

The traditional Monastrell wine tends to be a big, heavy, high-alcohol, high tannin, punch-you-in-the-face wine, as we like to say. Now some producers are making more subtle and balanced wines, so we’ll see if we can tell from the wines we have today if they are made in one way or the other. 

I will also note that Monastrell can also be found sometimes in Spanish Cava, although that is pretty rare. And it is often made into a rosé wine, which I am sure is delicious, and we will have to try sometime but not today because today we are all about red wine.

So, this will be fun. I am not sure that this is exactly the wine that we would normally gravitate towards, but I do have to say, I am becoming more tolerant of these bigger and bolder reds as long as they are well balanced. 

So, on that note, I think it’s time to learn a little more about the specific wines we are drinking today. Whaddya say?

ARTICLES and LINKS

• https://www.simplyspanishwine.com/blogs/spanish-wine-grapes/monastrell
• https://dbpedia.org/page/Levante,_Spain
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mourv%C3%A8dre
• https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/different-grape-names-wine-guide/ 

Monastrell Wines We Chose for This Episode 13:58

As usual, all of the wines we have chosen for this episode are under $20, and all of them should be relatively easy to find because I bought them all at wine.com. And, I do think you can find these wines relatively easily if you can go to a wine shop with a decent wine selection. Now, in your crappy corner store you probably won’t find them, but any relatively large wine shop or wine section within a store should have Monastrell. And, of course you can look for Mourvèdre or Mataro.

One thing I will say about these wines is that they were all very reasonably priced, and all of them had ratings of 90 or more from reputable wine reviewers like Wine Spectator. And, of course, we will continue to tell you that James Suckling ratings can simply be ignored if those come up.

Ok, our first wine is called Bodegas Sierra Salinas Mo and it comes from Alicante, Spain. We have a 2019 vintage for this wine so it has a tiny bit of age on it. And, by the way, since these are supposed to be big wines, we did open these already so they could get some air before we drink them. When you have a big bold red, particularly one that is young, it’s always a good idea to let it breathe a bit before you drink it. 

The winery that makes these wines was founded in 2000, so not that long ago, and they have converted all of the vineyards to be organic and they use dry farming. And dry farming is exactly what it sounds like - they do not irrigate the crops, so they rely on crops that will do well for the region they are grown in, and only use the natural moisture and water from the local climate. So dry farming is also very natural. Pretty cool!

The grapes come from relatively old vines in vineyards planted between 20 and 50 years ago with an average age of 35 years. And from what I can tell, they do not oak their wines, which I find surprising. This is what the website says:

The grapes are sorted rigorously and are destemmed at the bodega. The grapes macerate and ferment in open top stainless steel vats and the free run wine is transferred by gravity to a lower stainless steel tank for ageing. The fermenting grapes are transferred by gravity to the press and then again by gravity to stainless steel tanks. [that’s a lot of gravity] They are then aged six to eight months in stainless steel tanks to preserve freshness and soften tannins.

So I am super excited to try this wine and see how it tastes. It is a pretty high alcohol wine at 14.5%, so we’ll see how mellowed they can get their tannins to be. By the way, this wine we got for $10.99, so it is super reasonably priced. 

The next wine is called Ego Bodegas Goru Verde and was #47 in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 of 2022. It also got a 90 from Wine Enthusiast and Decanter, and Wine Enthusiast called it a Best Buy. And it is also $10.99. So if this is any good, it is a total steal!

Like the last wine, the winery uses certified organic farming grapes, and in this case the vineyards average 25 years old. They also claim that their grapes are harvested by hand. 

I don’t have a lot of other information about this wine - like if it is oaked or how long it is stored before it is bottled, but I am telling you, based on the ratings, I am expecting this to be a super-duper high QPR wine. You remember what QPR is, right?

The last wine we are going to be drinking is called Bodegas Volver Tarima Hill Old Vines, and this one got a 92 rating from Wine Spectator. Like the first wine, this is a 2019. It is a little more expensive at $16.99, but still reasonable. 

Now, I know for a fact that this wine is aged in oak, and they let it age for 14 months in French oak. Again, as we have mentioned, French oak tends to be a little mellower in flavor than American oak. Specifically, the winery says the grapes are fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts, and then transferred to new French oak. 

They also hand harvest their grapes, and when they say old vines, they mean old vines - the vines come from between 1935 and 1970. I believe these are also pie franco - which again means original, un grafted vines. They also farm organically, use dry farming methods, and use minimal human intervention. They also say that the soils the grapes are grown in are very chalky, so I am super interested to see if that comes out in the wine. This wine is also grown at relatively high altitudes at about 2,500 feet. 

Finally, this wine is unfined and unfiltered, so it is also Vegan. Hooray vegan wine!

On an editorial note, I will say that I feel like I am noticing a lot of wines from this area of the world, particularly Spain and Portugal, to be using a lot of natural, organic, and low intervention methods. Which feels modern, but is actually very old. 

Ok, I think that is enough information. We have three Monastrell wines all from wine that we’ve got to get drinking! We’ll take a quick break and be right back. And, if you have these wines or similar wines, drink along with us!


ARTICLES and LINKS

• https://www.wine.com/product/bodegas-sierra-salinas-mo-monastrell-2019/792047
• https://dryfarming.org/about/what-is-dry-farming/
• https://www.jorgeordonezselections.com/single-wine.php?wineID=285
• https://bodegasvolver.com/nuestros-vinos/tarima-hill/?lang=en 
• https://bodegasvolver.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/TARIMA-HILL-FT-EN.pdf 

Monastrell Wine Pairing Tasting and Reviews 21:14

Wine: Bodegas Sierra Salinas Mo (Click here to learn more about this wine. Affiliate link)
Region: Spain, Alicante
Year: 2019
Price: $10.99
Retailer: wine.com
Alcohol: 14.5%
Grapes: Mourvèdre / Monastrell
Professional Rating: JS 91, WW 90, JD 89

What we tasted and smelled in this Bodegas Sierra Salinas Mo Monastrell:

• On the nose: Dark cherry, spice, pepper, paprika, cinnamon, nutmeg, rich, earth
• In the mouth: Juicy, tangy, citrus, bing cherry, tart cherry, cherry skin, grape skin, tannic, a little alcohol, drys off the tongue nicely, big mouth feel, smoky

Food to pair with this Bodegas Sierra Salinas Mo Monastrell: Red meat, stews, fire roasted foods, wood oven foods, meat pizza, a winter warmer
 
As a reminder on our rating scale, we rate on a scale of 1-10, where 7 and above means that we would buy it, and 4 and below means that we are likely to pour it down the sink, and a 5 or 6 means we are likely to drink it and finish it, but we are probably not going to buy it. 

Bodegas Sierra Salinas Mo Monastrell Wine Rating: 

• Joe: 8/10
• Carmela: 7/10

Wine: Ego Bodegas Goru Verde (Click here to learn more about this wine. Affiliate link)
Region: Spain, Jumilla
Year: 2020
Price: $10.99
Retailer: wine.com
Alcohol: 14.5%
Grapes: Mourvèdre / Monastrell
Professional Rating: WS 90, D 90, WE 90

What we tasted and smelled in this Ego Bodegas Goru Verde Monastrell:

• On the nose: Smoky, freshly blown out match, wood, wood smoke, sweet cherry, earthy, attic, a lot going on, leather, flowers, roses
• In the mouth: Smoky, rich, floral, rose, like a Piedmont wine, matchstick, wood, clean end, good mouthfeel, meant to be drunk with food, subtle, austere, elegant

Food to pair with this Ego Bodegas Goru Verde Monastrell: Steak, roast, pizza, bolognese pasta, beef stroganoff, can handle cream sauces, very versatile

Ego Bodegas Goru Verde Monastrell Wine Rating: 

• Joe: 9/10
• Carmela: 7/10

Wine: Bodegas Volver Tarima Hill Old Vines (Click here to learn more about this wine. Affiliate link)
Region: Spain, Alicante
Year: 2019
Price: $16.99
Retailer: wine.com
Alcohol: 15%
Grapes: Mourvèdre / Monastrell
Professional Rating: WS 92

What we tasted and smelled in this Bodegas Volver Tarima Hill Old Vines Monastrell:

• On the nose: Wood, driftwood, beach wood, red plum, flowery, rose perfume, potpourri, astringent, show leather, earthy, sweet, a bit of cherry, blackberry
• In the mouth: Sweet, sharp, might be young?, tannic, oak, not as clean off of the tongue as the others, punch-you-in-the-face, astringent, too much alcohol for the weight of the wine

Food to pair with this Bodegas Volver Tarima Hill Old Vines Monastrell:  Grilled meats, smokey food, smoked sausage, smoked brisket, sharp cheese, pizza, charcuterie

Bodegas Volver Tarima Hill Old Vines Monastrell Wine Rating: 

• Joe: 6/10
• Carmela: 5/10

Which one of these are you finishing tonight?

• Carmela: Ego Bodegas Goru Verde
• Joe: Ego Bodegas Goru Verde

What is your impression of Monastrell?
A great wine to have in your back pocket. Will please a lot of people, great price. A really good food red wine. High QPR! Hard to find a wine this good at a similar price. 


Taste profiles expected from Monastrell   39:10

• General 
  • Wine Folly: Blackberry, black pepper, cocoa, tobacco, roasted meat
  • Simply Spanish wine: black fruit, aromatic herbs, licorice, pepper, jammy, leathery
• Bodegas Sierra Salinas Mo
  • JD: lots of red and blue fruits as well as violet and peppery herb-like aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, supple, round, and juicy
  • Winery: Aromas of fresh red fruits with hints of spices and freshly baked bread
• Ego Bodegas Goru Verde Monastrell
  • WS: This bright red ripples across the palate, with savory hints of cured tobacco and loamy earth underscoring the black currant and black raspberry fruit. Medium-bodied, with lightly chewy tannins.
  • Winery: Black cherry with purple violet hues. Clean, fragrant with a bouquet of spices, violets and blueberries. Smooth texture, with savoury red fruits, soſt with a round tannins, well-balanced acidity and a pure finish.
  • WE: This wine offers aromas of black currant, anisette and thyme. A network of glossy tannins supports flavors of blackberry, purple plum, Turkish delight and licorice. The finish is softly framed by floral and spice notes.
• Bodegas Volver Tarima Hill Old Vines Monastrell
  • Winery: In the nose mature fruit, raspberries, blueberries, spices, hints of balsamic and notes of flowers. Tasty in the mouth, balanced and full-bodied. Long finish
  • WS: An aromatic underpinning of tarry smoke and medicinal herbs serves as a savory counterpoint to ripe flavors of crème de cassis, blackberry preserves, licorice and espresso crema in this rich red. A frame of sculpted tannins and lightly tangy citrus peel acidity are well-knit to the expressive flavor range, resulting in a powerful, harmonious version.

Outro and how to find The Wine Pair Podcast 41:45

Ok, so, Carmela, it is just about time for us to go, but before we do, we want to thank you very much for listening to us - and if you haven’t done so yet, now would be the perfect time to subscribe to our podcast and also a fantastic time to leave us a nice rating and review on our website or Apple podcasts or other podcast service - and it is an awesome and free way to support us and help us grow listeners.

We would also love to hear from you about a wine you would like us to taste and review. You can, leave a message for us on our website thewinepairpodcast.com and you can join our email newsletter there, too, or you can just email us at joe@thewinepairpodcast.com and tell us about a wine you are curious about, or curious what we think of it. And, follow us on Instagram and Threads so you can see pictures of all of these wines we are tasting and reviewing. 

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Alright, with that, we are going to sign off, so thanks again, and we will see you next time. And, as we say, life is short, so stop drinking shitty wine.